I forgot to Zero Out my Camera!

That was what I was saying out loud this week (inwardly I was thinking much stronger stuff) when I discovered I had forgotten to change a setting on my camera from the night before.  This caused me to take terrible pictures of some of the SU basketball players at the banquet on Sunday.  We have all been there.  Photograph something and forget about all the changes made to get the exposure right then and get bad exposures the next time we start to photograph.

For me, the night before I was doing long exposure photography for High Dynamic Range (HDR) images which is totally different than a banquet filled with people and using bounce flash off low ceilings to get fast enough shutter speeds to light tall people with short people.  So, in an effort to save you (and me) future aggravation, I want to tell you about Zeroing Out your camera.

Zeroing Out is a process of going through the most used settings on a camera and putting them back to the start settings BEFORE using the camera.  Some people call this their base settings or starting point.  I then take a couple of quick snaps and review the photos on the camera’s LCD screen before leaving the house or, if on vacation, before leaving the hotel area. If the photos look bad or the photo’s Exif data is not right, I probably forgot to zero out.  Kind of a failsafe procedure.  By doing this, I know I am starting at a point I am very familiar with and can easily make changes as needed from there.  If I am taking a lot of photos or the light changes dramatically, I might zero out my camera on a few occasions during the shoot or day.

The advantage of Zeroing Out before you start shooting is huge.  Much easier to do in the calmness of your home or hotel room than when you notice you have taken ten photos that are over or under exposed and you can not retake them again because the opportunity is gone.  Worse, trying to fumble around to find which setting needs to be changed while someone is waiting.  Talk about pressure.  Imagine if that person is a bride or a Disney character and your daughter with a line of families behind you.  Guilty on both accounts.  I learned the hard way and still need to remind myself.

What are these settings I am talking about?  That depends, the blog writer says with a broad smile. The ones most of us need to be aware of is Shooting mode (P, S (Tv), A, M), ISO, Exposure mode, White Balance, Image Quality, Exposure Compensation (EV), Shutter (Single or Continuous) and Focus Area (matrix, center-weighted, spot, etc.).  You might have more or less settings depending (there’s that word again) on your camera and what you consider important. For Point and Shoot cameras, it might be as simple as putting the camera back to full Auto mode from another mode or scene used previously.

Another thing to be aware of is if you use a Vibration Reduction (Image Stabilized) lens. Make sure its settings are where you expect them to be after mounting it on the camera. I set mine to ON and Normal mode.

On a recent thread about this subject of Zeroing Out on a photography board I read, each photographer had different zero out settings.  Just as each of you will, too.

All that to give me an excuse to show you another HDR image. Take care and don’t forget to Zero Out Your Cameras.  You’ll thank me someday.

The Red Mill Inn of Baldwinsville, New York, at sunset.

The Red Mill Inn of Baldwinsville, New York, at sunset. Five photo HDR image taken with a Nikon D70 and Tokina 11-16mm f/2.8 lens. Processed in Photomatix and Apple Aperture 2.1.

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Assignment 6: Your Hometown

The very first assignment I posted last year was for everyone to do a Collective Shoot.  Ready to do another one?  This time the subject is Your Hometown.  This is different than landmarks as I am looking for one, two or more photos telling us about the place you call Your Hometown.  If you live in the country, show and tell us about the closest town.

Looking for new photographs.  Be creative and have fun!  March is a transition month for most of us. What better way to get out and enjoy it then with a fun photo project.

The Seneca River Bridge in my hometown of Baldwinsville, New York, has been a part of my entire life and a part of Baldwinsville's history.

The Seneca River Bridge in my hometown of Baldwinsville, New York, has been a part of my entire life and a part of Baldwinsville's history. Nikon D70/Tokina 11-16mm f/2.8 lens, 10 sec., f/16, ISO 200, EV -0.3, 11mm Focal Length, Tripod.

As in the other assignments, do not send me your photos. What I would like you to do is post them on your blog, flickr or other photo sharing site, personal website or any other place on the Internet where you can place a link to it here by making a comment to this blog entry. Then we can visit those sites and learn about Your Hometown.

Please, have your photos posted on or before Midnight (your time), Wednesday, March 24, 2010. Don’t have a place to post? Might be a good time to start up a blog or join a photo community like flickr. As I have done for all the Assignments, I’ll put together a recap with my comments.

If you have any questions, leave me a comment and I will be happy to answer them. By the way, I would really appreciate it if you would help spread the word about this so we can get lots of people to participate. Thank you!

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View 115: Silent Auction

There was a silent auction at the 2010 Men’s Basketball Hardwood Club Celebration Dinner for the Syracuse University Orange team last night.  There was signed posters and jerseys of the players both past and present, donated items from local businesses and signed items from pro athletes and sports celebrates.  By far the most interesting item was a signed basketball shoe.  How much would you bid on it?  It was up to $600 at the time I took this photo.  All the money raised from the auction went to the Syracuse University scholarship fund.

An autographed basketball shoe by Syracuse University players went for big money in this year's silent auction to benefit scholarship programs at SU.

An autographed basketball shoe by Syracuse University players went for big money in this year's silent auction to benefit scholarship programs at SU.

I will say the players shoe was signed by two of SU’s best this season.

Syracuse University Basketball players Andy Rautins (left) and Wesley Johnson are the shoe signees.

Syracuse University Basketball players Andy Rautins (left) and Wesley Johnson are the shoe signees.

The shoe went for over $1,000 which should help a future student who is not as priveleged as the players who signed it.  Good luck to Andy, Wes and the rest of the team in this week’s Big East Basketball Tournament!

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Book Review: Practical HDR

When I first learned about High Dynamic Range (HDR) photography last fall.  I was very excited about it.  I had some early successes but some were not coming out as I had hoped.  My December trip to Walt Disney World brought even more confusion as to what I was doing wrong.  Some worked, most didn’t.  I searched and read about HDR all over the Internet.  It’s easy, just set your camera to bracket at -2,0,+2 exposures once you set the 0 exposure.  Let me tell you, many online tutorials don’t go into a lot of detail on how to create the photos beyond that.

Click Here to Order Practical HDR by David Nightingale

What I found out in reading Practical HDR by David Nightingale is it’s more involved than simply shooting a three bracketed set of photos at plus/minus 2 stops.  The author describes how to properly meter for HDR image processing.  Like all digital photography, if you get it right in the camera, the post-processing becomes a lot easier.  I learned how to use the histogram to do this.  See, the histogram is good for something.  I, also, learned why it is better to take more than three bracketed photos and to keep the difference in the +1 EV range rather than +2.  I now understand why certain HDR photo sets I took at Walt Disney World were not very good candidates to create HDR images from. Their histograms show they (meaning me) did not cover the entire dynamic light range which is very important for good HDR images.

Practical HDR: A complete guide to creating High Dynamic Range images with your Digital SLR (I’ll use the entire title here once) then does something I wish other photography books would consider.  David’s idea was to use three popular HDR software products (Photoshop CS3, FDRTools and Photomatix) and show how to use each of them in creating HDR images from the same set of photos. This takes out the generic statements and instructions he would have had to use.  Since I already had the Photomatix plugin for Aperture 2.x, I skipped over the parts he was talking about Photoshop or FDRTools.  He steps you through each program and describes what each button and slider does and how it will affect an HDR image.  Something I had been looking for.

The books breaks up HDR images into two categories: Photo-Realistic and Hyper-Real.  Photo-realistic being more closely to what the real scene looked like to the photographer and using HDR to do so.  Since our eyes see many times more light than any of today’s (note: March of 2010) digital camera sensors, HDR adds dynamic light range by processing a set of photos which cover that range.  Hyper-real is where HDR is cranked up to look totally unlike what the scene was before the photographer. Some people do not like hyper-real HDR or HDR in general.  To me, it’s another way to express myself photographically.  I am sure the debate will go on and on about HDR.

For each category, you are shown how an HDR image is created.  The settings used and why.  For most of the HDR images the author created in the book, he lists the final settings in the various programs.  A big help.  The only criticism I have and of other reviews of this book is I wish I had the same images he used so I could follow along on my computer.

The last part of the book goes into post-production of HDR images.  Yep, you still need to finalize the images in Photoshop, Lightroom, Aperture or your own favorite photo/image editor. Details on how to use Curves, remove noise and halos and enhancing low contrasted scenes is shown.

At the end of some of the chapters you will see HDR Showcases of some of the best HDR images produced and the photographers who created them.  They are all stunningly beautiful and really gets one excited to go out and create photos to produce HDR images.

This is not a beginner’s book on post-processing photos.  You will need a good understanding of that and how to use your camera’s features for histograms and bracketing.  If you don’t know how, there’s a book called a Manual for your camera you’ll need to consult.  For me, as someone who has dabbled in HDR and was getting frustrated with some of my results, this book gave practical advice and instruction on how to create HDR images.  Thus, I fully agree with the title chosen.

Click on the link to pick up your copy of Practical HDR: A complete guide to creating High Dynamic Range images with your Digital SLR

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